How I found inner peace in Japan

Strange things happen when you travel to places like Mount Koya. If you don't watch out, you might just find serendipity in places you least expect.

By Nila Sweeney

A temple near Danjo Goran, Mount Koya

I knew this part of the journey would be very special. Why won't it be? I’d be staying in a Buddhist temple and I'd be able to sample, albeit in small doses, the monastic life.

What I didn’t expect was for my stay here to eclipse the heady experiences I've already had with the cherry blossoms and Mount Yoshino.

I thought things couldn't get any better. Well, Koya San, you proved me wrong!

Even with a few false starts in the morning, such as getting lost on my way down from the guest house because I thought I'd follow a different route (Yup, I know, I never learn), arriving in Mount Koya or Koya San made me instantly forget these niggly little things.

Temple near Okunoin

The place has mystical written all over it. The crisp spring air was colder and the town seemed to move in slow motion.

Koya San is certainly special. It's been recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Area and is the centre of Buddhist study and practice. As such, Koya San features a lot of temples, with a few offering accommodation to guests who want to experience a bit of monastic life.

You can walk around to explore the town, which seems to be the norm in Japan, although buses run regularly to take tourists from one end of the town to the other. I arrived well before the shukubo or Buddhist temple lodging opened for check in so I dropped my bags and started exploring the place.

 

Danjo Goran Temple, Mount Koya

First stop was Danjo Goran, a big red temple, which stood proudly in the middle of a large compound. A few of the monks were bustling about, preparing the temples for a festival of some sort. Inside was a different story altogether.

It was so quiet, you could hear a pin drop. The main hall featured a giant golden statue of the Buddha flanked by his disciples. The peaceful energy was palpable.

An elderly Japanese woman was praying quietly when I walked. She smiled and showed me how to do the offering. I wasn’t sure if I should, but I gave it a try anyway.

Perhaps the stillness of the place got to me, but I felt a wave of calmness wash all over me as I sat quietly, taking in the surrounding. I could feel my pulse and breathing slowing down considerably. It was an unfamiliar sensation after having been running on adrenalin at full speed.

Koya San does that to you. You just slow right down. I actually found myself walking slower and speaking softer than normal without even realising it.

I could have spent the whole afternoon there but I knew I had a limited time to explore the area before I headed back to Tokyo the next day. So I made my way to Dai Mon or Big Gate, featuring two fierce-looking deities guarding the town. With the sun shining brightly, I thought I'd fit in as many sights as possible.

 

Dai Mon, Mount Koya

Next stop was Okunoin, the most sacred site in Koya San where more than 200,000 monks, lay people, prominent people and royalties have been buried, some hundreds of years ago.

 

Okunoin, Mount Koya

I've seen the photos, but seeing it in real life was simply mind-blowing. The towering, centuries-old cedar trees sheltering the tombs with the sun's rays peeking in between them created such a glorious sight.

 

Ancient stupas in Okunoin

The graveyard, Japan's largest, also featured hundreds of stupas, some dating back several hundred years ago. Stupas are Buddhism’s sacred symbol of enlightenment.

At the centre of the graveyard was the mausoleum of Kobo Dashi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism in Japan, who is believed to be in eternal meditation since 835 AD.  

There was nothing morbid about the graveyard and I found myself happily spending the whole afternoon exploring the 2km stretch. The tranquillity of the place was infectious.

Without even noticing, I started thinking about my own transient existence and how I’ve been living my life. It was one of those moments when you’ve got nowhere to go but inside your head. It was confronting but liberating at the same time. I realised I’ve squandered a large chunk of my life living the way I did, but also joyful that I’m still alive to make things right. The setting was perfect for these kinds of contemplations.

Okunoin, Japan's largest graveyard

It was very tempting to stay longer, but it was starting to get dark so I decided to return to the temple where I’d be spending the night. I was warned by Lonely Planet that I should not be late for dinner which was to be served at 6pm. 

I arrived with plenty of time so I’ve decided to try out the much-raved about Japanese bath. I was a bit nervous but relieved that there was no one else when I got there. What followed was an out-of-this-world experience.

Buddhist temple lodging or shukubo

I didn't know what to expect, but the bath in this temple was above what I’d consider top notch. Everything was perfect and oh, so beautiful.

As I slowly slid into the large bath and felt the warm bubbling water on my skin, my brain just froze. I was totally lost in the moment. I lost the sense of time, place and self. The experience was so profound that I felt a sudden urge to cry and laugh at the same time. Perhaps I was just tired, but hey.

The bath left me feeling like a jelly when I emerged, 30 minutes later. I felt so light and fresh, with no care in the world. All the worries about work melted away. It was cleansing in more ways than one. I felt like a new person, inside and out.

 

My shukubo room. Simple yet elegant

As I staggered out of the bathing area and into my room, a monk asked if I wanted dinner served to which I said yes please. Within a couple of minutes, he came bearing not one, not two, but three trays of neatly presented traditional Buddhist feast!

 

Buddhist vegetarian feast

I was almost reluctant to eat them. They looked too perfect to touch, let alone eat. So I spent at least 10 minutes admiring the food and taking photos, as you would when presented with something this exquisite.

Don't know where to start! 

Best food I had in Japan

The food tasted as good as they looked. It's the best food I’ve had in Japan so far. As I tucked into this marvellous feast, I felt so much gratitude for the good fortune I have been given, to be here, right now.

 

It tastes as good as it looks

Perfection in every way

I felt incredibly privileged to be able to experience all these wonderful things. 

Peace, it seems, had come to me, at last.

Read my unforgettable adventures in Japan Day 1- Tokyo Highlights.

Random plans, cherry blossoms and disappearing crowd

High Drama in Mount Yoshino

A dream trip took an unexpected turn when I decided to follow the path less travelled.

By Nila Sweeney

Mount Yoshino

Waking up at 5:30am, my day was wide open. So many temples to see, so many cherry blossoms to view. What shall I do today, I asked myself  as I checked the weather forecast.

I wanted to make a quick plan on how to tackle Kyoto today. Apparently, one doesn’t just show up in Kyoto.

Over breakfast of two very thick slices of white bread and a sad-looking fried egg, I brainstormed with my roommates; a German girl named Meike and a French girl whose name I didn’t quite catch.

I thought about going to the bamboo forest, which was about 45 minutes from Kyoto, but then I remembered the crowd I encountered the day before. Do I really want to bump into so many pushing and shoving tourists today? The thought of it made me recoil a bit.

There was another option: Mount Yoshino, which boasts 30,000 cherry blossoms - the ultimate destination for a cherry blossom junkie like me. It was a no-brainer.

Cherry Blossoms On Mount Yoshino

The two-hour train ride to get to Mount Yoshino was quite pleasant. The announcements were all in Japanese, but I understood a lot of the words and the accent, so I knew when my train stop was coming next. It was nice to leave the mob behind.

As soon as I arrived in Mount Yoshino, I took the bus halfway up the mountain to give me a head start. It was all uphill, but what a view! The sight of the thousands of cherry blossoms clustered along the top of the mountain was simply stunning. Funnily, they look like a bald patch from afar.

30,000 Cherry Blossoms on Mount Yoshino

There were some tourists too, but nowhere near as many as Kyoto so there was no chance of elbowing someone off their place so you can take that perfect shot.

Mount Yoshino

I lingered at the mountain top for another half hour and then decided to make my way down when the heat got too much. It was a bright and sunny day. Just the perfect day to be in Yoshino.

I could hear the bus announcer from a distance, so I thought I'd just follow the sound. However, my curiosity got the better of me so I followed a different route and I ended up in the main village. 

It wasn't a wasted effort because the village itself was fascinating. I wandered around for a few minutes before asking an elderly gentleman for direction to the nearest bus stop. 

While the helpful gentleman was giving me directions, I saw from the corner of my eyes that the train station was 4.6 km away.  I asked him if there was a shortcut to the bus station. He said yes, and pointed me to a road going downhill. It looked right so I followed it. After walking uphill over the past hour and half, I was ready to take the easier way down. My legs were starting to fatigue at this point.

When I first started my trek down the mountain, there were a lot of people walking in the same direction. Then, they became fewer until I was the only one walking down the isolated road. I looked around but there was no one else.  It was eerily quiet.

The long way back to the train station

I wasn’t worried during the first 2 km. The scenery was so captivating I forgot that I was on my own in the middle of Yoshino. However, after walking alone for an hour, I started to wonder if I was lost. My eyes also started playing tricks on me at this stage. At one point I thought I saw the top of a bus, only to find out it was actually an abandoned building. 

I started to worry a little, and contemplated calling my friend Tomoko to send in a rescue party. I quickly checked if my phone has reception. Nothing. Oh dear.

Alone in the middle of Yoshino

Then, out of nowhere, an old woman, probably in her late 60s, appeared behind me, and walked briskly past me. Where did she come from? I didn't hear anyone walking behind me. I nervously looked around to see if there were others. None.

I tried to catch up with her and asked if I was in the right direction to the bus station. She just laughed. She told me in Japanese that I’d just have to keep walking. Then I lost her.

At this point I was really worried. Was she for real or was I just imagining her? I walked faster, almost running down the mountain as the sun started to set. I desperately wanted to see a lot of people. Then I chuckled at the irony of that thought as I started to sprint.

To my relief, the sign I was looking for appeared just around the bend: the train station!

I was so happy to finally get back to civilisation. I’ve never been happier to see so many people again. I jumped into the first train back to Kyoto, even if I have to pay another $10 for the ticket.

As I sat on the train, I was quietly laughing at my adventures today. I wanted to escape the crowd and got my wish. I also got to see one of the most breath-taking sights I've seen so far in Japan. What else could I ask for?

Why I keep falling in love with Sydney

 By Nila Sweeney

 

Amazing Sydney

It’s Friday and I was feeling good about my progress this week. It’s been a week of high drama, but the weekend was only a few hours away. I was looking forward to the well-earned break.

Then I found out that it’s a long weekend and everyone has already made their grand plans on how to spend the next three days. I’ve been so wrapped up with work that I didn’t realise I’ve actually got three days to play, not two.

Dang, I haven't planned anything. I frantically searched for last minute deals, as you do, even if you know how futile would be to think you can make a last minute arrangement to leave town.

I remembered seeing some cheap flights in my inbox and briefly contemplated booking a trip to Queenstown, New Zealand. Maybe Gold Coast. Anywhere. 

Then I realised Joe was scheduled to work some this weekend so going out of town was not an option. That's when I remembered that the Vivid Light Show was still on. I’ve heard about it and saw some amazing photos but haven’t paid close attention to the event. Then the phone rang. Joe.

Goodie. He wanted to go see the lights and so did I. Done. Friday night sorted out. I made a mental note to arrange something for Saturday, Sunday and Monday as well to make the most of the long weekend.

Sydney explodes

There’s nothing like a mild and clear Friday night to bring the whole population of Sydney out to the Opera House. I’ve never seen so many people jostling to see the display on the famous sails. Children, senior citizens, families, out-of-towners and people who didn’t plan their long weekends have all flocked along the harbour.

Sydney Opera House, Vivid Festival

Sydney definitely knew how to put on a great show and this was just one example of its brilliance. The way the projected images flow with the music was simply stunning. The Sydney Opera House provided the perfect canvass for the mind-blowing displays.

Sydney Opera House

Sydney Opera House

As the Sydney Harbour Bridge watched quietly next door, a giant ship slowly made its way. I could see camera flashes twinkle in its cabins as it moved out of the harbour.

Sydney Harbour Bridge

From a distance, I could see Luna Park with that taunting look. I wasn’t about to succumb to it, so I returned my attention to the ongoing display of lights and colour at the Customs House, the buildings along the harbour and then back to the star attraction of them all: the Sydney Opera House.

Somehow Joe managed to find a place to set up the tripod for my camera. It wasn’t easy, as people were pushing hard behind me to get that perfect shot. I tried using my phone camera to see if it can capture the display. Not even close. I was glad to have a ‘proper’ camera to use.

By the time the set up was complete, I was already standing in the front row. I was ready for action. I checked all the settings. So far so good. I took my first shot. 

Whaaat? How did that hand get there? As soon as I thought I had the perfect shot, a head, a hand or a camera suddenly appeared on the viewfinder. 

I started to feel a bit frustrated, then I realised, I actually don’t have exclusive rights to this space. Everyone has the same right as I do to enjoy the show. So I waited patiently until the next cycle started and the people with offending heads and hands have moved out of the way.

Finally I had my chance. Knowing that the vacated space would soon be taken by others, I frantically took as many shots that I could manage.

Sydney Opera House, Vivid Festival

Customs House

After 10 minutes of snapping madly at the display, I decided that I've taken enough photos. Time to enjoy the show. That’s when I noticed a little girl trying desperately to squeeze in to have a look. My heart just melted. So we offered her family our space. It was time to move on to the next location.

Darling Harbour. Joe and I arrived just after the fireworks display but we were told there was another show within half an hour. We decided to wait as Joe traded tips with another photographer.

Darling Harbour, Sydney

The water display was different, but was equally impressive. The crowd were a bit more subdued, but it was still a large audience.  There were also a few street performers, which added to the party atmosphere.

After briefly losing Joe (I thought he was right behind me), it was time to go and have dinner. I was kinda glad we didn't have much planned this weekend. The activity tonight has given me fresh ideas on how we can enjoy Sydney even more. 

It rekindled my deep love for the place. 

As we walked towards Town Hall to catch our train, I can’t help but feel grateful to be in this city where everyone could enjoy amazing shows like this one for free. 

There's no other place I'd rather be stuck on a long weekend than here in gorgeous Sydney.

My unforgettable adventures in Japan: Day 2

Cherry blossom explosion

A trip to Japan fulfils a childhood dream and so much more. This is my journey to self-discovery and redemption. Welcome aboard! By Nila Sweeney

After a great day on April Fool's Day, I woke up the next morning wondering if the punch line will be delivered today...Hmm. Better make sure I have everything, I thought to myself as I rolled my futon bed and prepared myself for another day of adventures. Today, I will be heading to Osaka for a day before continuing on to Kyoto.

I haven't really made any specific plans except to visit a few temples and see lots of cherry blossoms. Ahh, I'd be right, I kept reassuring myself, as I made my way to the local train station to catch the Shinkansen or bullet train to Osaka.

Today, there's a spring in my step as I confidently navigated the train system. Even as I got squashed by the morning crowd rushing to get to work, I found myself even enjoying it, bizarrely.

I reserved a seat on the earliest bullet train and just like a seasoned Japanese traveller, I availed myself a bento box and went down to my designated platform - without asking for direction.

Yes, I was so confident in my ability to read Hiragana characters that I actually stood at the wrong platform and could have gotten into the wrong train going to the wrong place. Luckily, I quickly realised my mistake and moved promptly to the right area.

My Hikari train arrived and I dutifully settled in my seat for a 3-hour journey. I could hardly contain myself. My first bullet train ride! I didn't care how ridiculous I might have looked with a big silly grin in my face. Who cares, I thought to myself. I am about to take my first bullet train ride and that's the most exciting thing so far today!

Hikari train. By Nila Sweeney

The elderly gentleman sitting next to me was rather nice and promptly nodded off to sleep as soon as we left the platform. I contemplated striking up a conversation with him, but after the mix up with the train platform earlier, I felt less confident and chickened out.

I felt the train take off. This is it!!! Oh my, it's really fast, I thought to myself as I tried to keep my cool as much as possible.

It was overcast outside but the speed of the train was more than enough to keep me enthralled as the landscape changed outside. 

I thought Yokohama and Nagoya were pretty forgettable, but then again I only saw a small part of these areas. Surely, there's more to these places than what you can see from your bullet train windows. Maybe.

I arrived in Shin-Osaka in no time. I quickly made my way to  to Osaka itself and down to Shin-Imamiya where I would be staying. Confident that I could find my way around, I just winged it and somehow made it to my small hotel. 

But that's after taking the wrong train and then taking the right train but making the wrong turn!

Desperate times calls for desperate measures so I summoned all my remaining Japanese capabilities and successfully got the right direction from non-English speaking locals. My friend Tomoko did warn me that Osaka people don't speak that much English, which means lots of practice for me!

Feeling a slight panic that I haven't really planned anything during my Osaka stay, I quickly plugged in and went online to find the best things to do when in Osaka. I've read a while back about Osaka Castle and decided that I will spend the rest of the day exploring the area. 

So off I went, camera on one shoulder, a stash of assorted papers and sweaters on the other bag.

Osaka Castle

The Osaka Castle didn't disappoint. When I saw the sheer number of cherry trees in full bloom in one place, I nearly squealed. It was incredible! People were having picnics, getting married and generally having a great time even as it started to drizzle.

Hanami parties

To get to the Osaka Castle viewing deck, I needed to climb 8 steep and long flights of stairs. Dang, the steps were high and so steep. I was sweating like a pig when I got to the top. I took some more photos and then climbed back down. I couldn't wait to get back to those cherry blossoms!

View from Osaka Castle

I wandered around the gardens and I lost myself completely. The hundreds and hundreds of cherry blossom trees clustered along the canal, around the garden area, everywhere I looked there were cherry blossoms of so many varieties! I couldn't keep up, there were so many cherry blossoms to see and photograph!

There were no words. I was simply speechless. I felt so much gratitude to be alive to enjoy this marvellous display of beauty. I felt so incredibly privileged to be here, right at this moment. I said a quiet thank you to the universe for this wonderful moment.

It was truly a paradise. Even though there were so many trees, their quiet elegance made it such a sensory delight.

I strolled around the garden, admiring every single tree, not discriminating any. Everywhere I turned to; there was beauty at its purest. Small, dainty and incredibly beautiful, cherry blossoms are truly one of nature's masterpieces.

I've walked and walked for more than 6 hours. I didn't want to leave the garden but the guards told me they're closing down some parts of the garden already. I thought about staying further but decided against it as darkness started to descend.

With so much hesitation, I made my way to the train station to Osaka. I wanted to check out the famous Osaka City Station that I heard so much about. It was indeed a work of art. I walked another half hour before deciding my legs had enough walking. Time to retire these tired feet. I grabbed a nice bento box of cod and rice and headed back to my hotel.

After dinner and a shower, I typed my handwritten notes about my Osaka adventure, knowing full well that words can never fully capture the spectacular beauty that I've witnessed today.

Stay tuned for Day 3:-)

My unforgettable adventures in Japan: Day 1

Tokyo April Fool’s Surprise

A trip to Japan fulfils a childhood dream and so much more. This is my journey to self-discovery and redemption. Welcome aboard!

By Nila Sweeney

After nearly ten hours flight from Narnia, otherwise known as Sydney, I excitedly peek through the window as the Qantas plane slowly came to a halt. I was almost dismayed not to see much but a few airplanes,  and then realised how silly it was to expect anything else. This is an airport, of course there's really not much to see, I muttered to myself chuckling at the silliness of it all. 

Surprisingly, I felt quite refreshed. I’ve forgotten how quiet and considerate Japanese passengers are! I’ve gotten so used to the rowdy Aussie crowd that seemed to invade every flight I’ve taken recently. It was certainly a very welcome change from the last flight I took going to Manila where I endured an excruciating 8-hour flight with a couple of drunken Australians sitting in front of me.

I took my first breath in of the Japanese air and instantly regretted it. Why are people wearing masks? Was there something nasty in the Japanese air? I found out later that they were protecting themselves from the Beijing smog. Yup, I thought it was a joke too, but my Japanese friend assured me that on a bad day, they get the smog from Beijing. Hmmmm..

So I proceeded to the immigration lane where I queued up for more than an hour. I was beginning to wonder if the famous Japanese efficiency has been replaced by the love of paperwork. Nevertheless, I waited patiently, even as the Indian woman behind me kept on complaining about how she's going to miss her train. Really? This is Japan, lady! Trains come pretty frequently, I nearly blurted.

The upshot of the long wait was that my bag was already waiting for me when I got out to collect it. So far so good! 

Next stop, I needed to get a temporary SIM card. Well, what do you know; I can't actually use my own phone in Japan! So I rented one, except that it's an older style phone which means I can't browse the internet. Oh well, that would do, I thought to myself as I nervously tried to figure out how to send a text message. 

Next, I went to collect my JR Pass. I bought the JR Pass voucher before I flew out of Sydney as it wasn't for sale in Japan. 

 

Narita Express

After collecting my JR rail pass, I took the Narita Express train to Tokyo and excitedly settled in my seat as the train zoomed out of the airport. I peered outside and saw my first cherry tree. Wow! They're everywhere! I almost jumped out of my seat when I noticed the amused look by my fellow passengers. In my broken Japanese, I told them, "First time in Japan" as I slinked back in my seat, feeling slightly embarrassed.

Before long, I arrived in Tokyo and into my friend Tomoko's apartment in Gotanda, Shinagawa where I'd be basing myself as I go gallivanting around Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. 

Gotanda is a hip residential and commercial area just a few train stops to the city centre. It was a perfect base.

Gotanda, Tokyo

I thought I'd know what to expect when using their toilet. Hmmm..Let’s just say it was very interesting...and weird. Really weird. 

I was almost too embarrassed to come out. Was Tomoko secretly giggling behind my back as I tried to figure these things out? Tip: you can use the toilet roll!

So the long-awaited Tokyo adventure began. After getting a lowdown from Tomoko on how to navigate the Tokyo transit system, I was set for the day.

The great thing about getting a JR pass is that you can use it in any JR train line, which is quite prevalent in Tokyo and other cities. You can't use it to ride the subways though so if you don't have JR Pass, get the pre-paid train ticket that you can top up at any train station.

I made my way to the local JR train station and headed down to Meiji Jingu Shrine near Harajuku and Shibuya, both known for their teenage culture and shopping. It’s interesting to see the traditional and the modern part of Japan coexisting side by side quite happily. 

The tall gate of the Meiji Jingu Shrine was quite imposing and the forested walk was equally impressive. Apparently, there are a total of 170,000 trees along and around the Shrine. Needless to say, it was breath-taking. The Meiji Shrine was bustling with pilgrims and the faithful, but it was surprisingly serene.

Meiji Jingu Shrine, Harajuku, Tokyo

Meiji Jingu Shrine

After exploring the temple for an hour, I headed back to Shibuya as I was getting pretty hungry at that point. Of all the restaurants I could have chosen, I've walked into one that actually served westernised Japanese food.  Too late, my stomach has pretty much taken over my brain. I have to eat. 

“Real” Japanese food was indeed literally just a couple of minutes away. A Japanese food festival was being held in one of the citys’ biggest department stores. Despite having just eaten, I went for a second helping. I was in food heaven!  Finally, I had my fix.

I explored Shibuya for another hour, admiring the vibrancy and energy of the place. It’s really like a small version of New York’s Time Square. 

Shibuya at night

It was a lot of fun crossing the road. So I did it twice and contemplated doing it the third time but I thought better. Starbucks has the best view of the crossing, but it was like a war zone out there, so I decided to check out the back streets instead. Shibuya is definitely a shopper's paradise. It's where all those hip young things and a lone tourist from Australia hang out.

I went back to my friend's apartment and rested for a while before I decided to go out and explore the neighbourhood. Near Tomoko's place was Meguro River where hundreds of cherry trees were still in bloom.

The cherry blossoms were on their last leg and the petals have started to fall but considering I haven't seen so many cherry blossoms in one place before, I thought this was paradise! I happily spent an hour taking pictures, admiring and marvelling at their beauty. I felt almost spiritual. One of my childhood dreams just came true! I was mesmerised by the way the petals fall out, just like snowflakes as they gently and gracefully sway with the wind.

Meguro River, Gotanda

The evening was a different experience altogether. Tomoko and I joined a bunch of Tokyo friends and fellow travellers at the New York Grill in Shinjuku and enjoyed the best vantage point of Tokyo. I was kicking myself for not bringing the camera. Oh well, another time.

After dinner, Tomoko and I went to meet up with an old colleague at a bar in Roppongi,  famous for its active nightlife. We went to a trendy bar which I later found out to be controlled by the Yakuza. It was surprisingly laid back, which made me suspicious even more.

A few more drinks and I was ready to hit the sack. I only had a few hours’ sleep since I left Sydney the night before so I was getting really tired. 

But I was so happy and excited to see my old friends and to see my first cherry blossoms. I savoured the moment and thought about the people who made it possible for me to be here. I felt the luckiest person in the world to have my whole family behind me. I missed them dearly and wished they were here with me too.

After packing my backpack for my trip to Osaka the next day, I was finally ready for bed. As I laid down on my futon bed, I have a big smile on my face and thought to myself, 'life is good' as I slowly drifted to sleep, dreaming about cherry blossoms and bullet trains.

Second instalment coming up in my next post:-)